Monday, 26 September 2011

Leaving Mozambique...

Rein checking in -

"I can't believe it's taken me two whole weeks to finally complete my last entry. So here it is, picking up directly from where I'd left off two weeks ago; recounting our trip to the Inhambane peninsula where we found ourselves wanting to get out of Barra lodge after spending three wonderful days at Tofo.

I continue the story:

We got our shuttle back from Barra to Tofo directly after breakfast and made a beeline back to the Casa, only to hear upon arrival that all rooms were occupied for that night. Our hearts sank to our stomachs of disappointment with the prospects of being left with no option but to return home after all. But, Aurella, whom had just shot back to the casa to get something from her room, suggested we come with her to our friends at the diving school (where Adam was doing his open-water exams) as she thought they would surely be able to help us find a room for the night. So we all lugged our luggage over to the school where indeed Nicola, the master diver on our discovery dive earlier that week, came up with several options through her network, offering the centre’s phone for us to ring around.

We settled on Turtle Cove, a wellness centre located in Tofinho, on the cliffs “next door” to Tofo beach. We rang them up to book a cabin and arrange a pick-up and settled in on the roof terrace of the diving school to wait for the driver to arrive. We chatted with some of the staff and almost felt at home, with so many familiar faces around in otherwise foreign place. Before long an old, rusty truck stopped in front of the building and I called Simon over. He took one look at the mangy vehicle and instantly dismissed it as one of the locals stopping by, but sure enough when I yelled out “Turtle Cove?” the driver looked up at us and nodded his head with a big toothless grin…

We made our way downstairs, threw our luggage onto the truck and squeezed onto the passenger seat next to driver in the front cabin. I could see the sunbeams coming through the rust holes in the roof and instantly tried not to think of the car’s safety record, as the driver tried to get the truck started. It took him several manipulations under the car’s hood to get the engine going and finally we were on our way out of town and on to the surrounding dunes towards Tofinho.

I was relieved we made it to Turtle Cove without any further incidents and pleasantly surprised with the set-up of the place. The wellness centre consisted of a main building in arabesque style with lots of loungy areas and a restaurant, giving onto a lush garden with pool, a yoga hall and fringed by individual cottages, each with a bed- and bathroom.

While checking in we ran into Alex, the centre’s yoga and wellness instructor, and her friend and business partner, Sam, who gives massages and healings at the centre. We had met Alex a few days before at the dive centre in Tofo, where she was taking a plunge with Aurella while Simon, Adam and I were doing our refresher/discovery dive. The four of us started chatting and before we knew it we had settled in one of the sofa’s over coffees, chatting away the afternoon. We told them about our project with TechnoServe and our concerns with it all and agreed to meet again the following morning over breakfast to hear about all the plans and good things that Sam and some other locals were undertaking to improve the life of the local people.

That evening we headed back into Tofo town for dinner and a party! We were invited to a joint birthday and farewell party for one of the resident South African restauranteurs. We arrived at the restaurant at seven o’clock and instantly ran into all the nice people we had met in Tofo over the past 4 days. Jenny and Gill from the Chilli Deli were there as the whole crew of Diversity Dive Centre and Alex and Sam. It was a strange experience to be at a party where we seemed to know pretty much everybody or were introduced to them by our new friends, after only four days. We realised just what a small close-knit community Tofo really is and were happily chatting away with our new acquaintances when Aurella and Adam arrived to meet us there as agreed. They join in in the fun and we all had the most wonderful night!

The following morning we met Sam for breakfast. In spite of the nice evening before, or maybe exactly because of it, Simon and I had both woken up feeling a bit down about our prospect of having to return to Maxixe that day after such a wonderful stay on the peninsula and we were seriously questioning the reasonability of us staying in Mozambique when we could be restarting our lives given the invitation I had received from Hay Group in India. We had a long discussion with Sam about it all and made up our mind that it was time to go.

When we came back to Maxixe, that evening, we wrote an email to the country director and got an almost immediate response from him saying he understood (and that it may not even have been such a good idea to start the project in the first place… :-s )

Driving into Maxixe on National Highway One
Our street in Maxixe
Our building with our apartment on the top floor
We then spent the following two full days locked up in our apartment compiling our final report and prepare for our final project review meeting in Maputo. We of course also tried to secure our flights back, but as this required working through TechnoServe’s Washington based travel agent, this wasn't easy; particularly with Monday being a holiday in the US and Wednesday a holiday in Mozambique. And on top of that, the colleagues in Maputo couldn't find a hotel room for us there either, due to the African games...



Our "neighbours"
Some local kids playing in our street



















So on Wednesday we packed all our bags in Maxixe and drove down to Maputo, with a hotel room for only two nights and no return tickets to Europe yet. So you can imagine Simon and I were a bit nervous. But then I kept thinking about what Sam had said at Turtle Cove, about when you really wish for something you can make it happen.



The town market in Maxixe


The project meeting with the full TechnoServe team in Maputo went really well. They were pleased with how far Simon and I had come on the “Marketing Inhambane” project and the ensuing discussion resulted in a new strategy to move forward on the initiative. We felt happy with how our engagement with TechnoServe came to an end, feeling we had delivered a worthy outcome.

That last day in the office ended frantically with us not knowing until just before closing time whether we’d be on our way the following day or not, but finally leaving the office with a confirmed booking in hand for a flight out the following morning. In the end, we couldn't change our existing ticket with South African Airlines and had to get a cheap new ticket with Egypt Air (ugh) with a 10-hour stopover at Jo'burg airport (double ugh) and another one the following morning from 5 am to 10 am at Cairo Airport. BUT, we would be back home by Saturday afternoon (YEAH!).

And the rest is history. We had a long, exhausting but otherwise uneventful journey back to Brussels.

In the meantime we have caught up with some friends back in Belgium, spent a week at my parents’ place in the South of France and have made arrangements to have “meet and greet” interviews with my colleagues of Hay Group India in two weeks’ time.

If all goes according to plan I will resume work by mid-November and we will be living in India.

Stay tuned….”

- Rein checking out

No comments:

Post a Comment