Road trip to Wayanad

Rein checking in -

Part one...

"It was supposed to start at 5:30 am on Saturday morning. Simon and I had packed our bags the night before and went to bed early, having set the alarm for 5:00. We were excited about going as this was the first time we would be leaving the city (with all its noise and pollution) since the four weeks we'd been here. Also, as I was severely sick all day Thursday and most of Friday, we were relieved I felt well enough for this trip so we weren't going to miss out.

Then the first hint of it not going to go all according to plan came in the form of an e-mail from the organiser informing us that three guys had pulled out last minute and we now had too few people coming to warrant a van! If we were OK with a Tata "something or other" instead. Simon looked it up on the net to find out this is the tiniest of rental cars which would mean we'd be squeezed with three people on the back seat for (what we at that stage still expected to be) a 6 hour drive.  After some to'ing and fro'ing we managed to persuade the organiser to rent a people mover, but we had to fork out more money, on top of the handsome sum of cash we had already handed over for this trip. So be it, we thought, at least we'll be comfortable enough and I wouldn't have to worry as much for my back...

Then at 1 am an sms followed saying that the departure would be delayed by 40 min. Good, I thought after it had woken me up, that gives us an extra half hour of sleep.

(Just returning to the blog after a 10 min break, due to the gardener quite uselessly sweeping dust against the wind behind me; I had duck for cover to protect the laptop; a prime example of the ineffective use of cheap labour time here, the gardener has been sweeping up leaves around the house for the past two hours and when he's come full circle, he could start all over again...)


So at 6:15 we were all ready to go, only to receive another sms at 6:30 to let us know that the driver would be late... And another sms at 6:45 that the driver couldn't find his way; and another sms at 7:15 to tell us they were on their way to pick us up; and another sms at 7:30 that they could't find our house.... Finally at 8:00 we were on the road (only 2,5 hours after the schedule time of departure!)

You can imagine how Simon and I felt about this experience of so-called "sliding Indian time", with our Western standards of punctuality. But according to our host, in India you really are at the mercy of your given driver. Some times you're more lucky than other times and we were just unlucky this time. Somewhat grumbling Simon and I settled ourselves as well as we could in the back seat and decided to sit back and enjoy the ride. Well, let me tell you, there is no way you can sit back and relax in a car with a manic Indian driver. Our driver in particular made up for what he lacked in his communication skills with the franticness of his driving. Honking like his life depended on it (which in retrospect it probably did!) he overtook vehicles left, right and centre, regardless of what was coming up ahead, or even when there was just no way of knowing, like before a sharp curve or while climbing a hill. On numerous occasions his overtaking has to be aborted half-way, slamming on his break and relying on the courtesy of the truck on our left as well as the vehicle heading straight towards us to move out of the way, to avoid a head-on collision.

After a few hissed "Jesus's" on my part, I decided to place my fate completely and unquestioningly in our driver's hands and instead started focusing on the sights and scenery on the way. I really started enjoying the circus that on-road traffic in India is, from trucks that are decorated up like christmas trees  complete with colourful images and flickering lights, through scooter utility vehicles that are filled to the brim with a dozen joking and laughing workers on their way to their next job, through open jeeps full of ladies in their finest outfits, on their way to a marriage celebration, their colourful saris blowing in the wind, with road side stops overflowing with chai sipping drivers taking a rest and ox and carriages chucking along in the middle of the road, or cows strolling leisurely diagonally across the national highway. There were so many photo opportunities, but unfortunately, due to the manic driving style  of our chauffeur, actually taking shots from all this was virtually impossible.

So we drove along the highway, occasionally stopping for chai; through country towns and through Mysore where we caught our first glimpse of the magnificent Maharaja's palace (making mental note to come back for further exploration some time) and onto proper rural areas past Mysore. We saw the countryside and vegetation slowly changing into subtropical palm plantations and lush forests. And finally after 3,5 hours driving we reached the Dreamcatcher Cafe for our breakfast stop (it was at this stage almost noon and we hadn't eaten anything since waking up at 5:30 so we were starving).

End of part one.

Delhi (or should I say Bangalore) belly...

Rein checking in -

Warning; this post contains some explicit descriptions and is not for the fainthearted!

"It started around three o'clock in the morning on Thursday. I felt nauseous and needed to vomit. From then on it got progressively worse and I spent the rest of the night curled up in bed with cramps and rushed trips to the bath room. By the morning I felt awful like I never felt before. I really felt I couldn't handle it and it didn't help that Simon warned me that this could go on for a week!

Simon read up on what to do against Delhi belly on the net and suggested that I should observe a full two hours of abstinence including any liquids. I had been drinking water with sugar and salt to keep me hydrated, but apparently my stomach couldn't even handle that. So I followed Simon's suggestion and stayed off the water for a few hours, occasionally just rinsing my mouth to keep it moist.

And that was the lifesaver. My stomach started to settle down and after two hours I started taking small sips at ten minute intervals. After that I took some painkillers (my back was now severely playing up as well from all this rolling in bed) and I slept most of the day. At night when Simon came home, I had half a bowl of vegetable soup and one spoon full of rice and went straight to bed again.

This morning I feel much better. Even ate some dry toast with week tea, so hopefully I'll be back in order again by this evening, in time for our week-end trip!

But, by God, it was ghastly! The agony was excruciating, what with the projectile vomiting and dry retching during the night; I wouldn't wish this on my worst enemy. Good thing is that I know boast a stronger resistance to any of India's food and water bugs, so chances are this won't happen to me again!

- Rein checking out

A big sight seeing day!

Rein checking in -

"Today was another well packed sight seeing do, to round of the remaining sights in our new home town.

After a relaxed start we headed out to the old city centre to have lunch in an old Bangalore institution, the Mavalli Tiffins Rooms (commonly known as MTR). 

The lungis clad waiters at MRT

A satisfied diner ;-)

MTR has been operation since the 1940's and hasn't changed much in its 70+ years' existance. The concept is simple, you come in, take a seat and the food starts coming (and doesn't seem to stop!). It's all South Indian delicacies, served on a traditional Thali by courteous waiters, dressed in a traditional lungis.

The food is amazing, and it just keeps coming, and all that for barely € 2.50.

So after this copious meal we seriously needed to walk off the calories, so we headed right across the old town towards the old fort and Sultan Tipu's palace. The fort was built in the 16th century and the palace a century later.

Both were quite beautiful and wonderfully peaceful and quiet as there just don't seem too many people interested in exploring the few historical sights in this booming IT/business town. So we had the place virtually to ourselves.

Which was just as well, because we needed all our energy to brave the hustle & bustle of the hectic City Markets, where we headed next.

What a colourful spectacle this was. We had ears and eyes too few to take in all the senses...

Now just relaxing after a full day and tomorrow back to "work".  This week-end we are (finally) taking a break from the city. We're off for a two-day trip to the country side in Kerala (the next state South) where we will be staying on a resort in a so-called hill station at 1800 m high, where they grow tea and coffee and where we might even spot a wild elephant!

And beginning of next week we are moving out of our serviced apartment into more permanent and private lodgings, i.e. a studio apartment in a great house with a wonderful garden, which is shared with a group of young expat visitors! We can't wait!

- Rein signing out

A match made in...heaven or hell?

This is an additional posting on the important part in every Indian's parent's life. Their children's arranged marriage.

Arranged marriages are still BIG here. Really, I would guess that a huge chunk of marriages in India have been arranged either be your parents early on in their respective children's life, or by 'selling' their offspring stock.

I have been reading in several books the reality arranged marriages are and I guess I am still not decided whether they are a good thing or something slightly draconian which could slowly vanish with the passing years.

I spotted the enclosed images in the 'Matrimonial' section of the Sunday classifieds. The section where you advertise your children's life in married.

This one finishes off that 'Caste is no bar' which may
mean this guy is ugly or has done something which has ruined
his chances on something better.

'Looking for beautiful qualified girl'? Meaning?

They even have discounts on certain sections.

Very important, marriage not consummated.

And the section offers friendly advise for your wedding.

A Birthday at APSA - Simon

Yesterday, what a day it turned out to be. Birthdays all around.

The day started out as usual though arriving at APSA not one person to whom I normally visited was present. I was advised that each would be in the afternoon. So, with this knowledge, I did what I could on my 'projects' then sat and read my book in the sun.

After lunch, I noticed they were setting up tables and tinsel and decided to ask what it was all about. Well, it turned out that Friday was the Birthday day. What is Birthday day?

AS it turns out, most of the children who come to APSA do not know their own birth dates. It was decided a long time past that to give all the kids a chance to be given a birthday that one day at the end of the month  would be a birthday for a group of kids. The kids are called up from the crowd of hundreds of their fellow students, friends and get to have the photo taken and blow the candles out on the big cake.

Additionally, yesterday, a local group of business people from COLT Technology visited the centre and provided all the people attending with additional pieces of cake and samosas! They enjoyed being there as much as everyone else.

And, what made it all the more impressive, the kids do performances for all! It was amazing to watch! These kids design their own outfits, help make them, and do their own choreography and use the opportunity to have a huge group to watch them. They were all fantastic to watch! These kids started out with so little and to see them be a star on stage is great. And all their friends and students cheer them on as do the teachers.


The entire event took around two hours though was worth every minute. I too was called on stage to be in some photos though felt that I should not be in the spotlight as I was just there to observe, but hey, never one to turn down some attention. ;-)

I have since told a few others which we have met about it and must check to see whether I can bring other people to watch. Others would love it just as much.

It is weekend here and Rein and I are again going to take it easy. We are tentatively booked for a weekend to Weynard in Kerala next weekend which should be great.

Oh too, I have a new fear here in India. It is the fear my Auto-Rickshaw will swerve too fast and my head be pierced on one of the many sharp bolts sticking out. Really, I can see it happen already! 

Our second week in Bangalore

Rein checking in -

"It is interesting to experience how quickly you can get into a routine of sorts in a new place, no matter how foreign it is. We seem to have already started to do so, even if we've only been here two weeks.

It feels like the honeymoon is over. We are not as keen anymore on visiting the local (tourist) sites and don't feel in the know enough just yet to venture out of town to explore the surrounding countryside. Beside that, Wednesday was a government holiday, so we only had two days of volunteer work this week. We ended up spending a lot of time at the flat, relaxing, reading books and reflecting on our move.

The truth is that I feel we are somewhere half way between travelling tourists and settling into our new home. It is making me feel somewhat displaced in my new surroundings and not quite sure about my next steps.

The weekend was quite full, visiting the well organised Bangalore Queer Film Festival, which was held at the local Alliance Française, where we saw several excellent movies and also met several interesting people. On Saturday evening we went to one of the festival parties, which was good fun. It started at 8 pm and by 9:30 the party was in full swing. This is so, because of the strict curfew laws here, which dictate that all pubs, clubs and parties must close before midnight! This doesn't stop the locals from having a good time though - they just get into to it a bit earlier than what we're used to in Europe.

My second week at Spastics was one of getting better acquainted with the place, trying out new activities. I got involved in the actual education process, joining a class of 10 year olds. I helped out with reading, mathematics, computer class and arts & crafts. These kids all have CP (cerebral palsy) with various degrees of associated disorders (both physical and mental) and therefor need special care and attention. A lot of the teaching actually happens one-on-one. So this allows me to really get involved in the process and I love it. The kids can be so clever, artistic and naughty at times and they demand constant attention. After two hours I am exhausted and I have huge respect for the permanent staff who do this day-in-day-out.

This week I also sampled Ayurvedic medicine. There is a clinic just around the corner from where we live, so I just dropped in to enquire after treatments against back aches and to help sleep (as you know I haven't been sleeping well due to the mattress which has been causing me a lot of muscle aches in my back). Before I knew it I had agreed to a four day treatment of massages and tonics to cure me from all my gripes. The treatment saw me lying on a bare wooden plank, covered in litres of oil, while two attendants pounded, herbal hot packs on my back. The packs were heated on the spot by frying them in a wok with boiling oil, which was cooking right next to the massage bench. I can assure you that at times I was screaming out in pain as the packs were leaving burn marks on my skin or I was  stomped into the wooden table, but the result is there. I sleep much better and my back is no longer sore (as much).

And of course we did a lot of exploring through town again. We wondered the streets of our neighbourhood and visited Bangalore Palace, summer residence of the former maharaja of Mysore.

These guys roam the streets of well to do neighbourhoods
for kids that fancy an impromptu camel ride!

Here are some random shots of our trips across town during the past week.

Our local corner shop

The metro, in construction,
can you believe it is due to open
next month...

Bangalore Palace

Back to work - Simon

'My heart will go on....*', 'paper, paper', woof, bark, beep beep, 'London bridge is falling down...*', honk beep, Kannada this, hindi this... These are just some of the sounds we hear on an ongoing basis it is incredible. These sounds are of the 8 million people living around Bangalore and it is relentless. It starts early in the morning and does not stop until well after 11pm. Amazingly, it actually DOES stop. Often I wake in the night (toilet break) and am amazed at how peaceful it is outside. Not one sound.

Preparations for the Shiva day, public holiday.
Not sure if Shiva is a God or Goddess. This is not Shiva in the pic.

The past couple of days have been a mish mash of emotions between us both. As previously mentioned, we had a great weekend with the Bangalore Queer Film Festival, but 'came down' a little afterwards. We have just been on each other's laps these past couple of days and it has driven us mad. But, all is okay as we both talk about it and acknowledge that we both feel the same.

It is the emotion of being somewhere so foreign and unlike anything you have been exposed to before. I feel like I am just missing a home. A place where we can close off from the outside and be in our own cocoon. A kitchen! Oh for my own kitchen! I'm a little over the constant search for somewhere new to eat, albeit the food has all been fabulous an to date, no stomach upsets, or cuisine which has proven 'too hot to handle'. To be able to go grocery shopping and stock my kitchen with all these amazing ingredients would be perfect. To be able to just cook what we want, simple or extravagant, and relax at home. But we are just in a room, in a serviced flat, in Indiranagar. All that mentioned, it is a lovely leafy area, the room is kind of large enough and we have a large bathroom. The people working here are extremely hospitable and correct but it is still not 'ours'.

This morning, after several days off of work, we both returned. Re-energized and happy to again have something to really occupy our day, we both set off.

Cows here too also take Darshan, prayers and offerings to the preferred god
fellow animal, Ganesh. ;-)

I was happy to come across a few other westerners at APSA today as I was kind of gagging to speak to another westerner. Do not know why, as everyone here is extremely friendly and have welcomed us warmly, but I guess it was just to feel connected to people from outside or India and compare stories, etc. We all had lunch together in the sun and had a lovely conversation. Nice, need fixed. Thanks guys. We have also exchanged details to perhaps plan a meet up outside of social working.

Too, Tuesday we had a meeting with a journalist from the Deccan Herald, one of the state papers here in Karnataka. She works within the 'Metro' section, which is a supplement of the complete paper, focusing on 'non-news' stories and the like. We met her at the BQFF when she openly asked to join our table. It was a pleasant surprise for someone to ask to join your table, and we had a pleasant conversation. She then contacted us to do a story on our marriage! Well, we thought we were getting used to this, so why not. ;-) No, it was a lovely surprise and we were happy to join in. The story may not even get published because people in India are still very traditional and stories like this may cause offence but we thought why not. I was a little nervous as I would not want the story to be held against us if perhaps we wanted to come back to India! You never know. We will keep you all posted when released.

Meeting with Deccan Herald, in India's oldest running coffee house.

Tonight Rein has gone to a 'gay' meeting. I say that as I am not sure on their title, but it is a group of Indians who get together every Thursday evening to discuss important gay issues and rights in Karnataka and India alike. Rein had made some contacts and was welcomed to join them. He was very happy. Me, I was not really interested, but I think it was the thought of just having the 'room' to myself for a few hours was too good to pass up. Mmm, lekker.

* These are the slightly annoying sounds of the car reversing alarms warning the car is backing up. This would have come in hand the other day when just near us, a 19 year old construction working was instantly killed when a truck backed up over him. He had finished his night shift and was sleeping on the pavement when the truck came early in the morning. Sad story to read.